Deep Roots is
Five Years Old!!!
to everyone who has joined us on
our journey so far!
We truly appreciate your
support and patronage
June Beetle (Phyllophaga crinita)
The question often asked recently has been, "How can I get rid of the raccoons that have been tearing up my lawn?" Answer? Get rid of the grubs living under the grass that they are trying to feed on. The grubs are the larvae of the June Beetle more commonly known as the June Bug, which is a pest both in its larval and its adult form. There are many types of June Beetle and they are found all over the American continent.
June Beetle larva live in the soil and feed on the roots of turf and lawns. They are the cause of patchy brown spots and areas of die-back in lawns. Larva also feed on the roots of weeds, flowers and vegetables. To add insult to injury raccoons, skunks and opossums love to eat these grubs and will rip up your lawn to get at them.
In spring the larva emerge from the soil as adult beetles. The adult June Beetle is common to our area is about one inch long and has an iridescent green or copper body. If you have had lots of June Bug larvae living in your soil you will have lots of these large beetles flying at night looking for mates.
The female beetles lay their eggs in the soil. A new generation of larvae hatch in about a month and they feed through the summer. As soil conditions get drier and when winter arrives the larva dig deeper into the soil. As temperatures rise in the spring they move closer to the surface where they pupate and emerge as adults, starting the cycle all over again.
To get rid of them quickly and save your lawn we suggest sprinkling Sevin insecticide granules over your lawn before watering. For a long term organic treatment we recommend Beneficial Nematodes.
Control Fleas, Grubs, Beetles, Termites and Other Subterranean Pests with Beneficial Nematodes!
Beneficial Nematodes are live microscopic organisms (non-segmented round worms) that occur naturally in soil throughout the world. They are parasitic to insect pests that typically have a developing (larval or pupal) stage of life in the soil; however, they have been known to also parasitize above ground stages of adults, nymphs and larvae.
HOW DO NEMATODES WORK?
After application, the nematodes immediately get to work. Upon finding a pest, they can enter it through various body openings or directly through the body wall. Once inside, it is not the nematode that actually kills the pest, but the toxic bacteria inside the nematodes gut that is the real weapon – symbiotic bacteria, that when released inside and insect, kill it within 24 - 48 hours by causing blood poisoning.
Beneficial Nematodes release the bacteria in order to create food and a hospitable environment for their own reproduction. As the food resources within the dead pest become scarce, the nematodes exit and immediately begin searching for a new host. As long as there is a suitable host, they will continue to survive and parasitize.
HOW ARE BENEFICIAL NEMATODES APPLIED?
Since nematodes are alive and sensitive to light, apply them early in the morning or at dusk. If necessary, they can be stored in a refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
It's easy to apply nematodes. Before applying, make sure the soil is moist. Simply mix nematodes with water and apply using a watering can, hose end sprayer, backpack or pump sprayer or through irrigation or misting systems. Lightly water again after application.
WHEN AND HOW OFTEN SHOULD NEMATODES BE APPLIED?
Use beneficial nematodes whenever larvae or grubs are present, during the spring, summer and fall months. As pest larvae feed on plant roots beneath the soil surface, severe damage can be done before you realize you have a pest dilemma. If adult insects are present, their eggs, nymphs, larvae and pupae will soon be developing.
For Treatment: Apply beneficial nematodes every 2 weeks until pest infestation subsides.
For Prevention: Apply at least 2-3 times per year in the spring, summer and fall.
Nematodes will keep up to 20 months in the fridge.
WHEN WILL I SEE RESULTS?
Nematodes are considered to be one of the most lethal parasites known to kill plant pests. Depending upon the pest(s) you are treating and the method of application, it can take from 2-30 days for you to see results.
It is important to remember that nematodes disintegrate pests from the inside out. You will not see dead insect bodies as you would with a chemical knockdown. Instead you will notice fewer and fewer of the pest(s) over time. Like all insects and organisms, some nematodes will survive the winter in a dormant state; however, we recommend re-applying on an annual basis to ensure that your pests do not get out of control again.
Peach Leaf Curl
Peach leaf curl is a fungal disease that, under the right conditions, can cause severe early defoliation and crop loss on nearly all peach and nectarine cultivars. As the name of the disease implies, the most common and striking symptom of leaf curl occurs on the foliage. Infected leaves are severely deformed and often display a variety of colors ranging from light green and yellow to shades of red and purple. Eventually the leaves turn brown, shrivel, and drop from the tree. Many infected fruits drop early and go unnoticed; those that remain may become crooked at the stem end like a small yellow squash, while others develop reddish to purple, wart-like deformities on the fruit surface. After infected leaves drop, peach trees will generally produce new leaves. In severe cases canker infections develop more easily and trees may fail to develop adequate winter hardiness. Severe leaf curl can ruin one season's crop, and may set the stage for more long-term problems related to stress.
The pathogen infects peach buds in spring from bud swell to bud opening under wet conditions and air temperatures in the 50o to 70oF range. By the time symptoms are seen, the main treatment window has passed. If your trees have this disease the best time to treat the trees with well-timed fungicide applications in is the fall after 90% of the leaves have fallen, or early spring before bud break. However if the tree is left untreated after you notice peach curl the tree will weaken, so start treating the tree immediately you see any signs of infection. For the growing season when a leaf curl epidemic hits, remove all infected foliage even if it means taking off 90% of the leaves. Then spray with Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide. It may burn the remaining leaves but it is essential to spray all parts of the tree, and it will help stop the leaf curl from spreading.
Minimize stress on the infected trees by supplying some extra fertilizer, particularly nitrogen. Irrigate regularly, and remove the fruit load. This allows the tree to resume growth and replace the infected leaves more quickly.
In the fall after the leaves have dropped, thoroughly spray the tree with Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide. Spray once again in spring before the buds swell and before rain washes the overwintering spores into the bud.
|12 companion plants for tomatoes|
|Companion planting is part science and folklore. Grouping friendly plants together in the garden is suppose to help enhance growth, flavor and protect plants from pests. If you are an urban gardener with a small garden, the interest in companion planting is probably mostly centered on maximizing space. If tomatoes actually benefit from growing alongside these plants, well, that’s a bonus. Planting companion plants can't hurt and will at least make your garden look pretty.|
Here are 12 companion plants to grow with tomatoes in containers.
1. Borage: Borage is suppose to protect tomatoes from tomato hornworms, but the science behind that has yet to be proven. Although, last year I didn’t grow borage alongside my tomatoes and I caught my first tomato hornworms in the garden. So maybe there’s something to be said for its repelling properties. Grow borage for the leaves and pretty, blue edible flowers that have a fresh, cucumber-like flavor. Add the young leaves and blooms to salads, soups, and summer drinks.
2. Chives 3. Marigolds: The genus Tagetes is well known for it’s qualities to repel garden pests. They produce a substance called alpha-terthienyl, which helps reduce root-knot nematodes in the soil. 4. Nasturtiums 5. Basil 6. Calendula: Sometimes called pot marigold, but the Calendula genus should not be confused with marigolds listed as number 3. They’re completely different plants. Calendula leaves and blooms are edible and make a nice addition to
salads. 7. Carrots: Plant a crop of carrots early in the season with my tomatoes before the
tomatoes take off. Then plant another crop towards the end of the season when the tomato plants are on their last leg. Any time in between and you'll get stunted--but still flavorful--carrots as they compete with the roots of mature tomatoes for space in the soil. 8. Peppers 9. Sage 10. Onions 11. Garlic 12. Leaf lettuce: Growing leaf lettuce (and other leafy greens) in the same container as tomatoes acts as a living mulch which helps keep the soil cooler, and reduces the chances of spreading diseases from water and soil splashing on the leaves.
How effective companion planting is in the garden is up for debate. But what isn’t up for debate is that many of the recommended plants are easy to grow. Growing these and other recommended plants alongside your tomatoes increase your overall garden harvest.
|What to do in your garden this month...|
May is a frantic month in northern hemisphere gardens. Spring is winding down and summer's just around the corner. Warm weather changes rapidly to hot weather as we have recently experiences. The middle of April and the month of May is one of the best times of the year for our local gardens. Everything is bursting with bloom, color and health (including the blue cranesbills in the photo above). |
You may not need a list of what to do in the garden in May, because it is staring you in the face every time you walk through your garden, but here is the last burst of garden chores to get done before serious summer heat sets in:
WEED! WEED! WEED! It’s important to catch the weeds while they are still small because they will compete with your other plants for nutrients, water, and light. It is essential to regularly pull up weeds and grass that grow in your flower beds, as once they set seed you will find it hard to ever get rid of them entirely. Pull them out!
If, like me you are invaded by the perennial morning glory, you must pull it up wherever you find it, as it grows 9” a day from every node at this time of year. Turn your back on it for one week and it will have grown over 6 feet in all directions!!! Originating in tropical America, morning glory – scientific name Ipomoea Indica pictured below) –forms adense blanket of foliage over all vegetation. Its bright purple flowers look gorgeously pretty in this photo, but they are a sinister facade for a vicious strangling vine, known to put down strong roots wherever it touches the soil. It grows rapidly to the top of any tree canopy where it blocks light, reduces photosynthesis, encourages disease, prevents germination and breaks down trees. This vinewill complete,y cover this garden room in one season if left to grow. I love its blue flowers but I hate the way it smothers everything else in the garden with its huge heart shaped leaves. Pull it out! Do not confuse this perennial vine with the annual morning glory vine. This pretty 15’ vine is easily grown from seed and dies back in the fall. We have Morning Glory seeds at Deep Roots.
PESTS. As the weather heats up, so do pest problems. To help identify what’s bugging your plants and find a solution, bring a sample of the affected plant into Deep Roots in a sealed plastic bag and ask one of our nursery associates to identify the problem and suggest a cure. Examine your tomato foliage regularly for tomato hornworm (photo left). Keep watch for aphids, cabbage caterpillars, cutworms, scale, slugs & snails and any signs of fungal diseases (leaf spot, mildew, rust etc.). Hand-pick or wash off any pests you can see. Spray with a suitable insecticide if the problem persists. We have several insecticides at Deep Roots, both organic (safe for use on vegetables and fruits) as well as non-organic.
SNAILS AND SLUGS are out in force and can do a lot of damage in a short period of time. Go hunting for them early in the morning before they have had a chance to get under cover. I throw them into the road and leave them there for the crows to feed on. If you do not have the time or the inclination for this, we have a selection of slug bait from the mildest to the most effective. On your roses, watch for saw flies. Pay attention to the undersides of the leaves, looking for pale-green, caterpillar-looking slugs. They will strip a plant bare if you don’t pay attention. Spray your plants to wash these pest off, but if it begins to get out of hand, thoroughly spray with Spinosad, including the undersides of the plants. Watch for caterpillars and stay ahead of an infestation. Some caterpillars will turn into beautiful butterflies, so don’t over react when you see your first one or two. Just pay attention to those of your plants that tend to get the most infested. The first line of defense is a birdfeeder. The theory is that it attract birds to the garden and they will look for other food, i.e. caterpillars and aphids, on the plants nearby. If all else fails spray with BT – Bacillus thuringensis or Spinosad. These will kill caterpillars only, leaving beneficial bugs alone.
LADYBUGS: Talking of beneficial bugs…who doesn’t need more ladybugs in their garden?! Buy a little bucket of these beauties and invite your neighborhood kids over one evening for a release party. Priceless…..
MULCH: a two-inch layer of organic matter such as LGM Planting Mix and Mulch around your annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs (taking care not to cover any stems or tree trunks) to suppress weeds, and hold in moisture while giving the garden a finished appearance. When the weather warms up it will also keep the roots cool. Mulching around roses is a great way to keep them evenly moist and help prevent fungus growth by reducing water splashing and spreading spores. NOTE: Don’t mulch around warm season vegetables now because they really need the heat around their roots.
LANDSCAPE: Start digging that pond you’ve been talking about. Clean bird feeders. Turn the compost pile. Rip out invasive plants before they spread even further. Clean up any drooping or ragged fronds on palm trees. Treat yourself to a water feature or garden fountain. It will attract birds and other wildlife to your garden.
POTS. Before planting in new clay pots, pre-soak them in a bucket of water for 5 or 10 minutes. If you plant in terra-cotta when it is dry, it wicks moisture from the soil. Wash used clay pots in a weak 10% bleach solution before re-using them.
LAWNS. Keep mowing the lawn regularly. It's the best thing you can do to control weeds and keep grass thick and healthy. Fertilize your warm season lawn grass in May. If using a granular fertilizer, add flour to the spreader. This will help you see where you’ve been so that you won’t over fertilize.
PRUNING: Prune winter and spring flowering shrubs such as azaleas and camellias when they finish blooming because they bloom on year-old growth. This will stimulate new growth that will bear flowers next year. If hibiscus, lantana, princess flower, and other sub-tropicals have become leggy and awkward, cut back by as much as half to reshape. Pinch back your fuchsias and salvias to prevent legginess and promote fuller plant growth.
DEADHEAD. Remove fading flower blossoms before the plant goes to seed. Once a flower has set seed its botanical work is done and it will not bloom again, putting all its energy into the seeds.Deadheading will keep your garden neater and prolong flowering. Begin replacing cool season annuals as the blossoms fade.
THIN OUT the new fruit on your deciduous fruit trees to about one fruit about every six inches.
PLANTING: Plant or transplant trees and shrubs before the heat of summer. Plant vines such as jasmine, mandevilla and clematis for spectacular colorful flowers. Continue to plant warm-season flowers such as sunflower, verbena, zinnias and petunias, ageratum, amaranthus, aster, bedding begonia, bedding dahlia, candytuft, celosia, coleus, coreopsis, cosmos, gloriosa daisy, impatiens, lisianthus, lobelia, phlox, marigolds, nicotiana, portulaca, sunflowers, sweet alyssum, verbena, vinca and zinnias.
PERENNIALS. Shop for late summer and fall bloomers like asters, coreopsis, daylilies, gaillardia, gaura, gloriosa daisy, heliotrope, penstemon, pentas, purple coneflower and salvias. Make sure tall perennials are staked. Sow seeds or plant seedlings for tomatoes, beets, cantaloupes, cucumbers, kohlrabi, okra, pumpkins, corn, green beans, melons, peppers, squash, eggplant, lima beans, and summer and winter squash.
WATERING: Keep up with watering. We will probably not see any more significant amounts of rainfall this spring. Even highly drought-tolerant plants can need regular irrigation in hot weather. Water large cacti, for example, once a month and agave and yuccas every three weeks. Plants in containers may need watering every day in extremely hot weather.
STOP WATERING. When foliage on garlic, bulb onions, and shallots begins to dry out on its own, that’s your cue to stop watering. The lack of water prompts bulbs to form the dry outer layers that allow them to be stored.
FERTILIZER: This is the growing season so continue fertilizing your lawn, roses, citrus trees, fuchsias, avocado trees, vegetables, and flowers. Fertilize and deadhead your repeat blooming roses after the flowers fade to encourage a second round in early summer. When applying granular fertilizer, avoid getting it on the foliage to prevent fertilizer burn. For quick greening of your lawn choose Marathon All Season Lawn Fertilizer.
IRON DEFICIENCY. A sign of iron deficiency or "chlorosis" is yellow or pale leaves with green ribs. Chlorosis is a symptom of the plant being nutrient deficient, and therefore unable to produce adequate amounts of chlorophyll. The photo on the left shows a plant which has chlorosis caused by iron deficiency. The plant's newest leaves become more yellow than normal, with the veins on the leaves being the last part to turn yellow. A plant's inability to take up iron is usually the result of one of two causes. 1) the soil is deficient in iron, or 2) the chemistry of the soil prohibits the uptake of iron. Many plants cannot properly absorb iron from the soil if it is too alkaline. Severe chlorosis can kill a plant and must be addressed. The soil and city water in our region are both highly alkaline therefore chlorosis in our plants is more than likely the result of alkalinity in the soil. Apply a fast acting soil acidifier such as Hydrangea Blueing Formula. If you do not see results in a few days then the soil may be iron deficient, in which case apply chelated minerals such as Grow More EDDHA iron chelate which is formulated to work in alkaline soils. Citrus trees are very prone to suffering from chlorosis and benefit from regular soil acidification. We recommend Grow More Citrus Growers Mix.
NOTE: Yellowing leaves can also be a sign of over-watering as in this plant below left. Usually however, the whole leaf is yellow, including the ribs. To avoid over watering get a water meter here at Deep Roots and test the moisture in the soil before watering.
HOUSEPLANTS. Re-pot houseplants in new soil (we recommend cactus mix for faster draining) and move into a slightly bigger pot if they are root bound. Move them outdoors for their summer vacation when/if nighttime temperatures stay consistently above 60 F.
BULBS. Don’t cut off the still-green foliage on spring blooming bulbs that have finished blooming. Leave the tops on to help provide sustenance for the bulbs for next year. Don't remove them until they have finished their job and turned brown. If your bulbs have multiplied substantially, they may profit from digging, separating, and being held over in a cool, dry place to be replanted next fall.
CAMELLIAS, AZALEAS and RHODODENDRONS: Start feeding these acid loving shrubs with an acid fertilizer such as "Dr. Earth Azalea, Camelia and Rhododendron Fertilizer" when they stop blooming. Use at half-strength so you can feed again two or three more times. Fertilize at 6-8 week intervals, finishing up at the end of September.
CYMBIDIUMS: May begins the main growing season. Good summer care is important Keep the plants in semi-shade. Cut off bloom spikes and fertilize with Grow More Growth Formula. If your plants have outgrown their containers transplant them no later than the end of June. If you wait, you may not get blooms next year.
EPIPHYLLUMS are still blooming so continue to cut off faded blossoms and mist frequently in hot weather but don’t over water. A good rule of thumb is to water when the soil is dry down to 1-1/2 inches.
DAHLIAS: Give your dahlias a low nitrogen fertilizer. The goal is not such vigorous green growth, but those beautiful flowers. Thin out the number of buds to increase flower size.
Deep Roots Garden Center & Floral Design Studio
9am - 6pm daily
Floral Design Studio
Open: 9am - 5pm Mon-Sat
201-207 N. Sepulveda Blvd.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
Look no further for all your Prom boutonnieres and corsages or Grad bouquets and arrangements!
Our unique, custom, one-of-a-kind floral arrangements are created to your specifications by our talented team of designers.
To see examples of our designs go to our website http://deep-roots.net/FloralDesignStudio.htm
and click on the link to the Prom and Graduation Gallery.
Petal Attraction Hummingbirds
Hummingbirds are native to the Americas and are normally found only in tropical or subtropical regions. Interestingly, hummingbirds have little to no sense of smell, and are mostly attracted to plants because of their brightly colored flowers.
Hummingbirds are fun to watch and they serve a great purpose in pollinating flowers in the garden.
There are several things you can do to encourage hummingbirds to visit your California garden.
Tie an orange ribbon round the old oak tree. Use foot-long pieces of surveyor's tape (bright red or orange plastic ribbon sold in hardware stores) to catch the eyes of passing hummingbirds. Tie these pieces to bushes, trees, deck railings—any place near flowers or feeders. The bright colors will lure migrant hummingbirds down from the sky for a closer look. When they get there, they'll find your flowering gardens and hummingbird feeders, which might make them decide to stay for more than just a rest stop.
Hummingbirds not only drink nectar but they also eat a wide range of insects. Many flycatching birds like to use snags for perching and hummingbirds are no exception. Why do they perch? To rest, to preen, but most of all, to hunt. After beating your wings at a rate of 80 beats per second, you'd feel like taking a break too! All hummingbirds, but especially males, like to perch on the end of an exposed branch. From this vantage point they can see danger or rivals approaching. And they can sally forth into the air to grab a tasty insect, should one happen to fly past.
You can create a perch for a hummingbird by sticking a dead branch into the ground so that it stands vertically. Place it about 50 feet from a hummingbird feeder, or within view of a window. You may find that a territorial male uses the perch as a watch tower from which to defend a lone feeder
Don't remove those spider webs. Hummingbirds use spider web as a main ingredient in their nests. Strands of spider web hold the nest together and to the branch upon which it is built. Hummingbirds also love to steal insects from spider webs. Insects are an important source of protein for hummingbirds, and they'll get them any way they can. How convenient for hummingbirds to have spider webs do the catching for them!
Plant flowers that attract hummingbirds. Hummingbirds can eat up to 8 times its body weight in one day so they need lots of food sources. Hummingbirds tend to gravitate toward red colored flowers but will feed from flowers of any color that has nectar of a high sugar content. Include flowers of varying color and shape in your garden to keep hummingbirds interested as hummingbirds prefer a mixed diet of nectar sources.
The variety of plants for attracting hummingbirds is so great that, in the process of building hummingbird gardens, you could also be building a landscape that will be the talk of the neighborhood. In any list of flowers commonly used for attracting hummingbirds, you'll see lots of tubular or trumpet shaped flowrers in red, purple, white, orange, pink and blue. They're all rich in nectar.
Plant large clumps or drifts of flowers as you might see in nature, but keep them spaced far enough apart so the hummingbirds can maneuver among the stems and plants.
Hanging baskets are excellent as they provide color and flowers through the season. Being near homes they also afford closer viewing of hummingbirds. Good choices for these might be fuchsia, trailing petunias, or nasturtium.
Fountains and birdbaths attract hummingbirds. In addition to food, hummingbirds need water. Most of what they drink may come from flower nectar, but bathing at least daily is crucial to keep their rapidly moving wings cleaned. You can help provide water by having a birdbath or any rough-surfaced and shallow container. Hummingbirds also like waterfalls as in a water feature, or even just water on leaves, which they fly through for a quick shower.
The diversity of plants for attracting hummingbirds is not restricted to color. Annuals and perennials, vines, shrubs, trees, bedding plants and hanging plants - you can choose from all these categories in selecting flowers for attracting hummingbirds.
The list of plants that attract hummingbirds is long and includes:
Bee Balm (Monarda)
Coral Bells (Heuchera)
Cape Fucshia (Phygelius 'Cropurpri')
Plectranthus Mona Lavender
Red Hot Poker (Kniphofia Flamenco)
Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia)
Starflower (pentas lanceolata)
Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii)
Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus)
Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans)
California fuchsia (Zauschneria Californica Uvas Canyon)
Scarlet runner beans
These are just a few of the plants that attract hummingbirds.
We are an established drop off point for the South Central Farmers Cooperative, Community Supported Agriculture vegetable boxes. The boxes of organic seasonal vegetables and fruit are delivered to Deep Roots Garden Center every Wednesday at approximately 2.00 pm and we store them in our large flower cooler until closing time the following day.
Customers may order a box every week, every two weeks, once a month or simply when you feel like one. The boxes contain enough seasonal vegetables to feed a family of four for a week or a single/couple for two weeks.
The price of the regular box is $21, mini-boxes are $17. Payment is in advance – please place your order before noon on Mondays. Why not come in and order a box? Or you can phone in 310-376-0567.